I thought I would post some pictures and an update on our single turbo 2004 330 ZHP.
We started out using the Kangaroos twin scroll manifold and went to great lengths to maintain the manifold split all the way to the turbo and waste gate. I even divided the tube to the gate (that was a pain!). The manifold only has one 02 bung location though so we had to weld in our 2nd 02 sensor port. I don't know how our locations are going to effect the ECU or if there is anything that could be done to help out there, but for now but are just going to run with it.
I didn't like the large diameter Audi RS4 MAF so we welded an SCT BA5000 into the actual tube. I think it will flow better with less turbulence. It was a bit of a pain finding the right resistance to get the IAT to read correctly and I haven't really verified (actually idk how to really verify) the readings but at least we got ambient to read correctly.
Everything else went good and the car drives great with the HPX and 80lb injectors. It doesn't make any power yet, but that's not on the menu right now. We have some tune issues we are trying to resolve first.
2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
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xr7dave
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2022 8:06 am
2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
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Renovelo
- Site Admin
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Re: 2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
Wow, incredible project! Keep the updates coming as you figure out the tuning.
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xr7dave
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2022 8:06 am
Re: 2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
It runs and drives great so far. My tuning issues revolve around a few basic things I'm not too sure what to do about.
1) Rear 02 sensors are not installed so CEL and codes presenting. Idk what to do about that.
2) Fan comes on about 30 seconds after startup and stays on all the time. Idk what failure mode would trigger the fan to run continuously.
3) I'm confused about the stock WB02 readings. They show mid 12's most of the time even while cruising and fuel trims are reasonable. I guess I need to install an aftermarket WB so I can see what's really going on as I really don't think it's cruising at 12.5 AFR. It has completely stock throttle response and drivability so I don't see how it could be that rich, much less why it would be trimming itself to 12.5:1
Here is a datalog showing a few things. Fuel trims vary a bit bank to bank but I feel like they are reasonable, I'll work the MAF curve a bit to get that closer to neutral, this was just a first drive datalog. But you can see the AFR and that makes no sense to me.
1) Rear 02 sensors are not installed so CEL and codes presenting. Idk what to do about that.
2) Fan comes on about 30 seconds after startup and stays on all the time. Idk what failure mode would trigger the fan to run continuously.
3) I'm confused about the stock WB02 readings. They show mid 12's most of the time even while cruising and fuel trims are reasonable. I guess I need to install an aftermarket WB so I can see what's really going on as I really don't think it's cruising at 12.5 AFR. It has completely stock throttle response and drivability so I don't see how it could be that rich, much less why it would be trimming itself to 12.5:1
Here is a datalog showing a few things. Fuel trims vary a bit bank to bank but I feel like they are reasonable, I'll work the MAF curve a bit to get that closer to neutral, this was just a first drive datalog. But you can see the AFR and that makes no sense to me.
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xr7dave
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- Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2022 8:06 am
Re: 2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
I've been driving the car more and I hope the SES light will stay off now. It's been off 2 days and about 50 miles so that's encouraging. I followed the footsteps outlined by the Supercharged guy rkneeshaw for shutting off the rear 02's and it seems like its working.
The car actually runs and drives nearly perfect. Throttle response, idle, cruise, etc. all seem like the same as before we installed the turbo. Boost comes on quick as it's a small 57mm Borg twin scroll. We have the gate sprung to 6-7psi but I don't have a boost gauge yet so idk for sure. The thing rips I can tell you that. It will light off the tires in 2nd when it spools and pulls great to 6000rpm at least. I am having an issue though with timing. Idk what is going on so if there is some input I'm all ears. What is it seems to pull so much timing (like down in the 5-7deg range) in the 3-4000rpm range under boost that it misfires and chugs slightly. Then at 5000rpm it gets the commanded 13 deg and hauls bananas. Idk why it's only getting 5-7 when I'm commanding 12-13 on all the big spark tables. I don't think it's knocking, I can't hear anything and the knock voltage is under 1.5v with no spikes. Datalog attached.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The car actually runs and drives nearly perfect. Throttle response, idle, cruise, etc. all seem like the same as before we installed the turbo. Boost comes on quick as it's a small 57mm Borg twin scroll. We have the gate sprung to 6-7psi but I don't have a boost gauge yet so idk for sure. The thing rips I can tell you that. It will light off the tires in 2nd when it spools and pulls great to 6000rpm at least. I am having an issue though with timing. Idk what is going on so if there is some input I'm all ears. What is it seems to pull so much timing (like down in the 5-7deg range) in the 3-4000rpm range under boost that it misfires and chugs slightly. Then at 5000rpm it gets the commanded 13 deg and hauls bananas. Idk why it's only getting 5-7 when I'm commanding 12-13 on all the big spark tables. I don't think it's knocking, I can't hear anything and the knock voltage is under 1.5v with no spikes. Datalog attached.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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etistl_e39
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- Joined: Fri Sep 29, 2023 9:15 am
Re: 2004 330ZHP M6 Turbo install
Looking at the last screenshot you posted, although the knock voltage seems low, it is at the highest during that period of lower than expected ignition advance. I would not rule out that it is knocking and that the ECU is pulling ignition out. Also, perhaps the reason you don't hear knock is because the knock controller is doing its job.
The safest way (for your engine) to test this is probably to run a higher octane fuel and see if it behaves differently in that area. Alternatively, you can probably turn off knock control, but you risk damaging the engine if knock control was doing its job in the first place.
MS4x.net has a section about knock control on ms43 (I'm assuming that's the ECU you have)
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Si ... _Detection
I think that zeroing these 2 tables will disable knock induced ignition retard:
id_iga_dec_knk_1__n: ignition angle reduction based on knock stage1
id_iga_dec_knk_2__n: ignition angle reduction based on knock stage2
The safest way (for your engine) to test this is probably to run a higher octane fuel and see if it behaves differently in that area. Alternatively, you can probably turn off knock control, but you risk damaging the engine if knock control was doing its job in the first place.
MS4x.net has a section about knock control on ms43 (I'm assuming that's the ECU you have)
https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title=Si ... _Detection
I think that zeroing these 2 tables will disable knock induced ignition retard:
id_iga_dec_knk_1__n: ignition angle reduction based on knock stage1
id_iga_dec_knk_2__n: ignition angle reduction based on knock stage2